When should I consider neutering?
This will depend on where you get your kitten from and the policy of your local veterinary practice. Some rescue centres and veterinary surgeries now recommend early neutering from around 12 weeks of age. Generally it is more common to have your kitten neutered from around the age of 5 to 6 months. Kittens reach sexual maturity around 5-8 months, sometimes earlier, and from that point are capable of breeding and producing kittens themselves!. It is advisable to keep your cats indoors until they are neutered, as they may be able to get pregnant slightly before this age. Remember to ask whether they are microchipped at the same time if they haven't been 'chipped' already.

Why neuter?
The benefit of having cats neutered far outweighs any risks and is a very responsible thing for a cat owner to do.

Neutering a cat - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus, occasionally only the ovaries), not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual maturity. It also reduces the risk of certain diseases and reduces the risk of female cats possibly developing a uterine infection. If spayed at an early age the risk of mammary (breast) cancer is also reduced. An unspayed female cat can have up to three litters each year, with up to six kittens in each litter. In five years she could have over 20,000 descendants.

Once sexual maturity is reached, the cat will begin to come into season or 'call'. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur every three weeks and will only stop once your cat is spayed. Signs may include rolling around on the floor, yowling or calling, increased appetite and restlessness.

How can I tell if my cat is pregnant?
If you do not get your cat spayed, she may become pregnant. You will not be able to tell if your cat is pregnant until the second or third week of the pregnancy. The pregnancy will last 63 days. Signs may include enlarged nipples (may change colour and harden to prepare for lactation) and a swollen belly from around 4-5 weeks. If there is a chance your cat is pregnant then we would recommend taking her to the vet straight away for a check-up to confirm pregnancy. Once there, the vet should be able to advise the best course of action.

What changes can I expect after neutering?
In the male (depending on the age of neutering), you may find that your cat does not stray as much and therefore is at less risk of being involved in possible road traffic accidents and being involved in fights with other cats. The aggressive behaviour puts an uncastrated male at much higher risk of serious infectious diseases that are transmitted through cat bites. It may also stop him from starting to 'spray' or mark his territory around your home and he will certainly smell a lot better!

Cats usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually lively again.

It is important to remember that, once a cat has been neutered, there is a chance they will gain weight. This is because they may become less physically active, no longer feeling the urge to roam around looking for a mate. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your cat start to put on too much weight and remember, exercise is important for cats as well as dogs.

Every cat is an individual. Like people, some pets put on weight more easily than others and need less food to keep them slim and fit, while others need extra to keep them at their ideal body weight. Feeding guides are as accurate as possible, but some pets may need less or more than this "ideal".

Assess your cat's body condition by trying to feel it's ribs - you should just be able to feel them under a firm covering of flesh. There should be a waist between the ribs and hips and the tummy should be tucked up. Cats tend to get plump, saggy tums first, and then start to put on weight over the ribs. Feed your pet less or more depending on how your cat measures up to this ideal but remember never to starve or diet your cat without seeking veterinary advice. Once your cat is at the ideal weight further slight adjustments may be necessary.

Most dry foods can be fed either dry or soaked in water. As a rule most cats prefer to eat their food dry and it usually becomes less attractive to them when soaked. Soak the food in warm water and allow to cool before offering it to your cat. The time for the food to soak will vary according to the particular food but as a rough guide 30 minutes is usually enough.

If your cat is fussy with food it is important to consult your vet to rule out a medical cause. Being selective with foods and eating less can be a sign of many illnesses. However, once illness is excluded, remember that every cat is an individual and like people can have taste preferences. Cat foods are available in many different forms such as chunks in jelly, chunks in gravy or a meatloaf type. If your cat is fussy warming the food slightly will help to release the natural aromas. Hand-feeding can also be very useful to tempt a cat that is convalescing after an illness. Try small amounts of different foods but take them away if they are refused and offer an alternative a little later. Don't forget that some cats prefer crunching on a dry food. Consult your vet if your cat is not eating enough or becomes increasingly fussy.

Kittens can usually be started on the weaning process at three weeks of age and should be fully weaned by six to eight weeks of age. Canned food can be mashed up and mixed with water to form a gruel. The gruel can then be smeared onto the kittens face or feet to encourage the food to be licked off. Never force food into their mouths as they may inhale it by mistake. Some kittens will take the food as a mash but make sure there are no big chunks. Dry food can also be soaked and used to make a gruel. Feed little and often and as the kittens get older add less water to the mixture. By 10-12 weeks of age many kittens will eat dry food without it being soaked, while most will manage a canned kitten food at 6-8 weeks.

It is estimated that the average healthy adult cat may spend up to 30% of its time grooming. Yet, being involved in your cats grooming routine is a good opportunity for you to spend quality time together bonding with your cat. There are also many other benefits in being a part of this routine.

Grooming not only stimulates the circulation and improves muscle tone, but also minimises fur-balls in the stomach by removing loose hairs. This is also an opportunity to spot any problems such as external parasites, lumps, bumps or mats and even hairloss.

Coat condition is a good indicator of overall health. Normally your cat's coat should be sleek and glossy. Consequently, if there are any changes in your cats coat, this may be an early sign of health changes and we would advise contacting your vet to discuss the situation.

However, many cats may experience difficulties grooming themselves for a variety of reasons.

If your cat is older he may have problems if his dental health is compromised or he has joint pain. If your cat is obese, he may not be able to reach certain parts to groom and may require your assistance, coupled with a diet plan!

Most cats enjoy being groomed but for those who are not used to the experience, or are very nervous, it may be stressful and grooming over joints affected by arthritis may be uncomfortable. Pulling too hard on matted fur is also painful and may damage the skin. Extensive matting may require input from the vet.

If you are experiencing difficulties, we set out below some advice to increase your cat's tolerance.

You may need to withhold all grooming for a few weeks. Initially we would recommend that you avoid using the traditional combs and brushes as this can cause discomfort and may even make your cat less tolerant of the process. We would recommend the use of a very soft rubber brush or mitt, which promotes more of a massage action since rubber teeth are more flexible than ridged comb teeth.

If your cat is happy to come and sit on your lap or near you, you can start to introduce a new routine. Ensure that they are relaxed, talk gently to them and stroke them, giving food rewards if necessary. Begin stroking in places that they will tolerate being touched. Then pick up the rubber mitt and brush in these places very gently for a short period of time, giving very small treats. End with a period of stroking again. Do this little and often building up the time you spend using the brush and in different parts of the body. The aim is that your cat will learn to enjoy these positive periods of interaction with you. However, you should always end these periods if your cat shows signs of agitation.

Once your cat is happy to tolerate this you can begin to introduce other brushes, again gently and for short periods of time initially. Allow your cat to get used to the brushes in association with a positive experience. Laying the brushes next to your cats feeding bowl so that he or she can sniff them and not feel threatened when they are introduced.

There are a number of preparations that can be used to safely treat your pet against fleas. These are available from vets and pet shops. It is vital that the preparation you obtain is for cats as some dog-flea products are highly toxic to cats and can be fatal. Treated dogs should be kept away from cats for several days. Check that the preparation you use is suitable for the age of animal you intend to treat as puppies and kittens may be more sensitive than older animals. Treatments tend to involve drop on/spot on preparations as they are easy to apply. Powders, sprays (liquid or aerosol), tablets or liquids to go in food are also available and it is strongly recommended to treat the home as well as the pet, as there may be flea eggs still in the house. Preferably consult your vet for information and use a veterinary licensed product that is tested for effectiveness and safety. Treatments tend to involve drop-on/spot-on preparations as they are easy to apply. Powders, sprays (liquid or aerosol), tablets or liquids to go in food are also available. It is also sensible to treat the home, as there may be flea eggs still in the house.

First, you must distinguish between spraying and urinating. Spraying is a deliberate act of communication, which will be done on a vertical surface such as a wall. Urinating is the normal passing of urine onto a horizontal surface such as the floor. Spraying can be a sign of a quite serious upset but is usually a normal marking behaviour in entire males (un-neutered) and in most animals outside the house. Some of these apparent toileting problems can have a medical basis so if you encounter such problems always ask your vet to check your cat.

For any kind of spraying/urination, cleaning the area properly is very important to prevent recurrence, try the following procedure:

1. Clean the area with a 10% solution of a biological or biological washing powder / liquid.
2. Wipe area down with cool clean water and dry.
3. Spray area with a low-grade alcohol such as surgical spirit through a plant mister and allow to dry before the cat is allowed back into the area.

Remember to check for colourfastness first.

As with many problems it is a wise to have a veterinary check-up first in case it is related to a medical problem. Subtle changes can cause stress and spraying, and sometimes you may not even know of any changes. Never shout at your cat as this will simply add to any stress and re-direct the behaviour to another inappropriate location. If there is a cat flap this can lead to insecurity even if your cat has been fine in the past, so initially it may help if it is blocked. If strange cats are entering the house then obtain a microchip or magnetic cat flap to ensure that your cat alone can enter. Treatment involves reassuring your cat that it's territory is safe and not under threat, giving lots of attention and minimising stress. Make sure an adequate number of litter trays are provided (one per cat plus one), are clean and in appropriate locations. Pheromone sprays can be obtained from a vet to make your cat feel more settled and can also be applied to areas of soiling. The longer this problem continues the more difficult it is to stop.

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Fears and Phobias: Fireworks and other loud noises
A fear of fireworks is quite common in cats, and the effects can be devastating in some. Indeed, if not treated promptly, the fear can escalate quickly and a minor problem can become a severe one, with the cat becoming progressively phobic of other sudden loud noises or flashing lights, and any number of things that she has come to associate with fireworks. For example, some cats may start to become apprehensive and agitated at the approach of dusk, thinking that it may be followed by the whizzes and bangs that they fear. Others may become fearful when in the same locations where they have heard fireworks, and for some this may even develop further into a general fear of the outdoors.

Signs of fear typically include:

• Pacing
• Panting
• Attempting to hide
• Lack of appetite
• Distraction, it will be difficult to get the cat's attention
• Salivation
• Restlessness
• In extreme cases, there can be incontinence

Prevention
Good early habituation to a wide range of sounds will prepare a kitten for any loud noises she will encounter later in life. If raised in a breeder's busy home, with people coming and going, and all the sounds that accompany ordinary family life (pans being dropped, washing machines, cups smashing accidentally, loud music from the teenager's bedroom, screaming in excited play, and so on), then a kitten is likely to be noise-tolerant as an adult in any subsequent home. Similarly, outdoors she will be fine if as a youngster he experiences the sound of aircraft, thunder, distant gunshot and bird scarers, traffic etc., and finds that her owners don't react to them, or to her when they go off, even if she is initially startled at the first exposures.

If the kitten's exposure to loud noises indoors, or fireworks etc outdoors causes great fear at the first exposure, however, or her initial anxiety is reinforced by attention from her owners, then she could well become fearful of such sounds for life and his condition may worsen steadily. Equally, if she was raised in a quiet, calm environment and had not built up any experience of such noises, learned to ignore them or how to cope with them, then she will probably have great trouble getting used to loud noises in her new home and especially when she hears his first loud firework or clap of thunder.

Using a pre-recorded CD of firework and other loud and strange noises, available from your vet or pet store, may help a kitten get used to a range of such sounds and learn to ignore them in adulthood. The CD needs to be played very quietly in frequent short doses initially, then slowly increasing the volume over the course of several days provided she shows no fear. Her habituation will be assisted if she is distracted playing or eating during these exposures. However, some kittens may habituate to all sorts of recorded noises coming from the hi-fi speakers, but still react fearfully to the 'real life' noises, such as fireworks outdoors, and then become fearful at other associated signals, such as the smell of fires, darkness etc., or the atmospheric changes and sound of rain that she may come to learn are associated with impending thunder.

Management
If a cat is already showing fear of fireworks or other loud noises then it would be advisable to seek the help of an experienced, professional behaviourist on referral from your vet as soon as possible. Fear is a very tricky thing to conquer and, if mismanaged or left, it will usually escalate and become more difficult to treat.

A word of warning…your vet may offer a long outdated treatment involving the prescription of a medication called Ace- or Acetyl-promazine (ACP), which often comes in the form of little yellow tablets. DO NOT administer these under any circumstances as they simply prevent the cat from responding to her fear and give the false impression that she is relaxed. When on ACP, a cat can still see and hear the fireworks and is still terrified. Unable to hide and escape, her fear could well increase. ACP does not alleviate fear and should never be used to treat fear and phobias of this nature. Ask instead for a referral to a behaviourist.

The behaviourist will assess your cat and devise a personalised treatment plan. This may include providing her with a safe indoor den on a raised surface or in a dark corner into which she can escape and be left alone when she is fearful. An indoor kennel or crate, with a blanket draped over the top and three sides, could provide such a haven, and help her develop a coping strategy if it is placed in a secluded corner of the house and filled with cosy bedding and perhaps sprayed with a calming pheromone available from your vet. Accustom her to using her den to rest, sleep and avoid household chaos in whenever she wants to, well in advance of any fireworks or thundery weather. Then, when fireworks or thunder are anticipated, make sure that she has free access to her den, so she can find it easily when the noises start.

It is most important for you not to show any anxiety or marked behaviour changes yourself when fireworks or other loud noises occur. You could well be nervous wondering how she will react, but try to remain as calm and 'ordinary' as possible or she will start to react to your behaviour before any sign of fireworks or thunder. Certainly don't attempt to comfort her if she looks even slightly apprehensive. Offering reassurance is only natural, but it could well reinforce her emotional response and so encourage her dependence on you rather than her learning to go to the safety of her den to relieve her fear. Ignore her when she is fretful; only give her attention when she is confident, or looking relaxed in her den.

Keep her indoors during the whole evening of expected fireworks, close the curtains to minimise exposure to firework or lightning flashes. Put the television or radio on, shut all doors and windows to reduce the noise of the bangs, and try to act as normal as possible, only rewarding her if he is relaxed.

For severe cases, where a cat is very distressed, or during the initial phases of treatment by a behaviourist, a vet may advise some form of medication, but not ACP!

The information contained in this article is not a substitute for individual veterinary or behavioural advice and is for information purposes only. You should always consult a veterinary surgeon if you have any concerns about your pet's health. He or she will be able to take a complete medical history and physically examine your pet, to then recommend appropriate individual advice or treatment options. For detailed behavioural advice tailored specifically for your pet, we recommend that you contact a qualified pet behaviourist. For further details of local canine and feline behaviourists practising in your area and how they offer help for with problem pets, please contact The COAPE Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers at www.capbt.org, or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.co.uk. Do bear in mind that while dog trainers can take you on as a client directly, pet behaviourists will always require a referral from your veterinary surgeon

Scratching is a perfectly normal behaviour that has a number of very important benefits. These benefits include:

1. Sloughing off dead claw sheath
2. Visual marker for other cats to see
3. Scent markers (glands in the pads) deposit scent as the cat scratches
4. Conditioning of the muscles required for the retraction of the claw.

For cats that spend a great deal of the day outside, scratching in the home is rarely a problem as tree trunks provide a perfect surface for scratching. Cats generally will not scratch in the home if a suitable site for this behaviour is provided.

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Most kittens are taught to use litter trays by their mothers or teach themselves given access to appropriate substrates and facilities but if your kitten is slow to learn, you can assist. Place the litter tray in a convenient place for the kitten but not too near her feeding bowls. Fill the litter tray with some litter to an adequate depth for digging and burying of about 1-2 ins. Some cats prefer particular types of litter, such as wood shavings or pelleted wood or newspaper, mineral litters or garden soil. If your cat has been used to going outdoors sometimes mixing soil with the litter can help. Make sure you provide at least the same number of trays Plus one for the number of cats you have. Change used litter trays once per day per cat. Changing too often can confuse your cat as some residual scent gives your cat an idea of how to use the tray. Lift your kitten into the tray when she first wakes, as this is the time that s he will need to "go" and after feeding and playing repeat the process. If your kitten looks like she is searching for a place to go then lift her into the tray again. If your cat has an accident then do not punish her, simply clean it up with a on-ammonia based cleaner and try to think why the accident happened.

This can be very traumatic and upsetting for cats. You are often distracted and stressed and this can rub off. The period before moving is also stressful, i.e. packing of boxes. It is often advisable to put pets into a cattery or even send them to stay with someone that they know. Alternatively, confine them to one room with food, water and litter tray whilst packing up and removals occur. Place a synthetic pheromone plug-in somewhere in the new house (see your vet for more details). On arrival ensure all doors and windows are shut and place your cat in one room, before slowly allowing exploration of the remainder of the house. Keep your pets out of the way of any building work or decorating that may also be going on. Make sure your pets know where food and water bowls are and where they can relieve themselves. Cats should be kept in for a period of at least two weeks to allow them to settle in their new home before letting them out. Always make sure your cat is microchipped and that you have altered your contact details with the microchip company. Make sure you have a cat flap in the new house so the cat can come in and out.

Moving to a new home can be very stressful both for you and your cat. Not only can the move itself be upsetting but the process of settling in can also have its problems. Below are a few tips to help this relocation be as stress-free as possible for your cat.

• Before you begin packing you should ensure that your cat is kept out of the way. Ideally a short stay in a cattery or with someone they know is preferable to exposing them to the move. This might also stop you worrying too much about them.
  Alternatively, keep the cat in one of the quietest rooms away from the activity with their own bed, food and water bowls and litter tray.
• On the day of the move ensure that your cat is secure and away from the removal activity, you may need to put them in a cat basket so that they do not run off if the doors are accidentally left open and they are frightened.
• When the time comes to move them to your new home do it either before the removal of your belongings or after the rest of the move has occurred if possible. Place your cat in a quiet room again with their own bed etc and one or two familiar items such as a chair, blanket or cushion.
• Your cat should be confined for the first few days until you have done most of your unpacking to minimise the change that they experience. After this you can let your cat out for a little wander around with you. If he or she seems relaxed and grooms happily then your cat should settle but if he or she seems stressed confine to the one room for a few days, letting your cat out for short periods for attention and feeding when the house is quiet. Keep food/water and litter trays in the same place to try and keep your cat as settled as possible.
• Try not to move things around too much while the cat is settling in and keep them away from any workmen, as this will be even more unsettling.
• Stick to normal feeding and play routines.
• Use a pheromone plug-in to try and reduce stress.

The key to any move with a pet is continuity and positive reinforcement.

How long should I wait before letting my cat outside?
Keep your cat indoors for at least two weeks to allow them to associate the new house with home. If you live close to your old home it is possible that your cat may go back there, because (when exploring) your cat may recognise its old territory. In this case keep your cat in for a little longer. Cats are very adept at creating a map of the area in their minds based mainly on scent and some visual markers, which they will be able to recognise. They should be able to find their way back to their new home once settled in for two or three weeks. Warn people in your old home of this potential problem and ask them to contact you if they see your cat so you can collect him or her and start the confinement again.

When you first let your cat out make sure that it is before meal-time and during the day: this way your cat will be hungry and unlikely to wander far. You will then be able to call your cat back for food. This will work better if you stick to regular meal-times as close to those that your cat has been used to. Ensure your cat is microchipped and details are updated on the database.

You should also consider whether your cat's new environment is very different to what they are used to. For example if you live near a road and you are used to living in a very quiet location then your cat may not know how to deal with traffic and be at extra risk, so take extra care when you first let him/her out.

It is virtually impossible to predict how one cat will respond to another. Personalities may clash! But please follow these general guidelines:

1. Take it slow, it is harder to repair damage than to prevent it.
2. Spend extra time alone with each pet.
3. Allow frightened animals a chance to get away from stressful situations, do not block escape.
4. Consider owner and animal safety.

Phase 1

• During first few days, confine new cat to one room with a litter tray and water, spend time in there with him or her.
• Resident cat will smell and sense intruder, reassure resident cat.
• Feeding relieves anxiety: feed the cats either side of the door to the room where the new cat is confined, moving bowls closer together.
• Move only as quickly as both cats seem comfortable with.
• Confine resident cat to an area that it is comfortable with and allow new cat to explore house until both seem relaxed. This may take days or weeks.

Phase 2

• Ideally try and arrange visual contact through glass or via a crate in a doorway and again feed close together.
• Arrange for a time when both cats can roam freely together. Coincide with meal times. Expect some hissing and hesitation while they assess each other.
• Feed your cats in each other's presence at a comfortable distance apart and then separate again. If either will not eat, try again later when they are relaxed.
• Allow them to spend longer and longer together after meals and move food bowls closer.
• Resident cat's emotional state should be given priority over the newcomer.