When should you consider neutering?
From around the age of 6-8 months, puppies reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing puppies themselves!
The age that your veterinary surgeon advises will vary between practices with some advising early neutering of puppies at 12 weeks of age or slightly older. Other practices will advise that the best time to have your female dogs neutered is before their first season and others may say afterwards, but none will do this during the season, preferring to wait 6-8 weeks after a season to perform the procedure. Discuss this with your vet.
Most surgeries will recommend neutering a male dog at 6 months of age (again this varies between practices).
It is advisable to keep your dogs on a leash at this time, as female dogs may be able to get pregnant slightly before this age. We would also recommend not leaving your dog tied up outside shops during this time for the same reasons.

Why neuter?
The benefit of having dogs neutered far outweighs the risks and is a very responsible thing for a dog owner to do.
Neutering a dog - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus or in some cases just the ovaries), not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual activity. It also reduces the risk of false pregnancies and certain diseases such as mammary tumours, pyometras (uterine infection) and testicular tumours.
Once sexual maturity is reached, the female will begin to come into season. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur once or twice yearly and will only stop once your dog has been spayed.

How can I tell if my dog is pregnant?
If you do not get your dog spayed, they may become pregnant. You will not be able to tell if your dog is pregnant until 5-6 weeks after breeding. The pregnancy will last 63 days. Signs may include enlarged nipples and a swollen belly from around 4-5 weeks.
We would recommend taking your dog to the vets for a check-up to confirm pregnancy. Once there, the vet will be able to advise on the best course of action.

What changes should I expect after neutering?
In the male, you may find that the behavioural effects will depend on the age of neutering and the dogs individual personality, but you may find your dog will not stray as much (to find unneutered females) and may become calmer and may cease any aggressive behaviour or sexual behaviour such as mounting or marking their territory with urine, but it will not change their basic character.
Dogs usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually lively again.
It is important to remember that once a dog has been neutered, they may be more prone to weight gain. This is because it may become less physically active due to no longer feeling the urge to roam around looking for a mate. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your dog start to put on too much weight.

Every dog is an individual. Like people, some pets put on weight more easily than others and need less food to keep them slim and fit, while others need extra to keep them at their ideal body weight. Feeding guides are as accurate as possible, but some pets may need less or more than this "ideal".
Assess your dog's body condition by trying to feel it's ribs - you should just be able to feel them under a firm covering of flesh. There should be a waist between the ribs and hips and the tummy should be tucked up. Feed your pet less or more depending on how your dog measures up to this ideal. Never diet or restrict your dog's food without consulting your vet for advice. Once your dog is at the ideal weight further slight adjustments may be necessary.

Most dry foods can be fed either dry or soaked in gravy or with water. Some dogs enjoy the food dry while others may prefer soaking. This is usually the case if the dog has been used to eating a canned food before. Soak the food in warm water and allow to cool before offering it to these dogs. Remember that gravy can be quite salty and there is usually no need to offer this with a dry complete food that contains all the nutrition a dog needs. The time for the food to soak will vary according to the particular food but as a rough guide 30 minutes is usually enough.

This will depend on your vet's advice. Diabetic dogs usually need to be given insulin once or twice every day. In some cases your dog can be fed the same food she has always had, provided that you give her the same amount of food, of the same type, at the same time every day. However, your vet may recommend a diet designed for dogs with diabetes to assist with blood sugar control, or a specific weight control diet if he/she is overweight, again fed in set meals at certain times of the day. Without following a regular routine she will prove hard to "stabilise" on her insulin.

All dogs need and appreciate regular grooming. Grooming not only helps your dog look his best but also keeps him clean and healthy. These sessions not only stimulate the circulation and improve muscle tone, but also give you the opportunity to check for any potential problems such as lumps, bumps or mats or external parasites. Other benefits also include the removal of excess hairs from his coat that may end up on your furniture or carpet and of course the chance to spend extra time with your dog, therefore increasing the bond between the two of you.
Coat condition is also a good indicator of overall health and an ideal opportunity for you to notice any changes in your dog’s coat.
Normally, the coat should be sleek and glossy. Consequently, if there are any changes, this may be an early sign of health changes and we would advise discussing these changes with your veterinary surgery.

Certain breeds may require more grooming than others. For instance, longhaired dogs may require clipping on a regular basis as well as a daily routine. Basic equipment may differ with each coat-type as well. Longhaired dogs may need a long tooth comb, whereas short-haired dogs may need a coarse brush. However, grooming may be quite painful for some dogs, particularly if they are not used to being groomed or are experiencing health issues. Even if you think you are being very gentle your dog may feel otherwise. This can lead to a negative experience for your dog and make the sessions worse each time you attempt to groom him.

In cases such as these a soft grooming mitt or rubber brush coupled with some tips, should make this experience easier for both of you.
If you experiencing difficulties, please email our team for advice.

Grooming checklist:

Brushing:
We would suggest grooming your dog at least once a day. A ten-minute session is normally adequate for most short-medium breeds of dogs. However, a long-haired dog may require slightly longer.

Feet & Nails:
Examine your dog's feet daily (particularly long-haired breeds), to check for any matts or foreign objects between the toes (burrs/grass-seeds). Nails may need to be clipped if not being adequately worn down by daily activity. This may be something that you can do at home, however ask your vet to provide some clippers and a demonstration before attempting this yourself.

Skin:
Run your hands over your dog’s coat to check for any lumps, bumps or matts. Should you find anything out of the ordinary, please discuss this with your vet.

Fleas:
It is uncommon to find adult fleas on living on your pet as they prefer the to live in the environment and then periodically jump on your dog for food! However, you may find small black particles on your dogs skin, these may be deposits of flea dirt. If your dog has fleas, we would suggest discussing a flea-control program with your veterinary surgery.

Ticks:
These are small parasites that gorge on your dog’s blood. They can be easily picked up from certain park areas or places that have dense vegetation. If you find one of these, they need to be removed very carefully so as to disconnect the whole part of the tick. Your vet will be able to do this and provide you with a tool to use in future.

• Avoid paper training if possible as it can encourage the dog to toilet in the house.
• Allow your puppy frequent opportunities to go out. Puppies are not able to reliably control their sphincter until they are 6 months old. Be sure to allow your puppy to go out immediately after feeding and sleep. Give regular meals and avoid snacking.
• Teach your puppy to walk on a lead so that you do not have to carry it outside to void. Activity encourages bowl movements.
• Once outside do not disturb your puppy if it begins to sniff or look interested in something, even if it is raining! When your puppy begins to go praise gently in a light voice, if you are too enthusiastic the puppy may stop. When your puppy is finished give it encouragement. Puppies can be taught to eliminate on command.
• It is pointless to punish for any mistakes especially if there is any delay in finding the mess. To be effective this must follow within seconds. If you do catch your puppy in the act, do not pick it up, but walk it outside and praise if it goes again. Clean areas soiled thoroughly to prevent encouraging the puppy to go back there. Dogs do not like to go near food or bedding so if your puppy is persistently going in one area move its food bowl there. Puppy crates or pens can be used to AID training but should never be used for punishment.

What is clicker training?
Clicker training is a simple and effective method of training based on a positive reinforcement reward system. The clicker itself is a simple plastic box with a metal tongue. When compressed it emits a double 'click' sound. The clicker is used to reward a specific behaviour and works on most dog's willingness to want to please their owners and earn their prize. The beauty of the clicker is that it is specific to the behaviour your dog is exhibiting at the time that you want to reward. Praise such as "who has been a good boy then!" is not going to be as effective in teaching your dog what is going to get it a reward and so it will take longer for it to learn. As the click is sounded as the behaviour is occurring there can be no doubt about what the dog is being rewarded for.
Clicker training uses your dogs own natural desire to learn and obtain a reward without having to use any force or punishment. If your dog does not do what you are trying to train it will not get a click reward and so will try harder to do what you want to gain recognition.

Training Rules

• Keep training sessions short and sweet. It's better to do six five-minute sessions than one half-hour each day - young puppies often lose concentration easily.
• Only train when you are in a good mood, or you may take your stress out on your pet.
• Always end training sessions on a good note with an exercise you know your dog can do easily; so you finish with the taste of success.
• At first, train with no distractions. Establish what you are trying to teach in a quiet environment and only add distractions later, so that your dog learns to respond in a range of environments.
• Training must always be reward-based; treats, toys, games and cuddles. Negative, compulsive, punishing techniques are cruel and don't work. Never use a choke or check chain as you can injure your dog's neck very easily. If you need more physical control or a calmer dog, or one who communicates better, fit a headcollar such as a Gentle Leader.

Sit

The first training exercise you should attempt.

• Take a treat, and show it to your pet.
• When your dog shows interest in it, he will follow it with his head, trying to get at it.
• Hold the treat above your dog's head, so he looks up, and take it to just behind his nose, so that he has to move his head backwards.
• The only way your dog can reach the treat is to put his bottom on the floor.
• The moment he does so, click, and give him the treat and lots of praise.
• Within a few attempts, your dog will know how to earn his click and treat, and his 'sit' response will get quicker.
• When he fully understands what is expected, say "Sit" as he sits, so he learns to associate the word with the action.
• Now you have added the cue, with practice, you will be able to ask him to sit rather than lure him into position with the treat.

Down

This is the command to get your dog to lie down. Don't confuse your dog by saying "Down" to get off the sofa; use "Off" for that instead and reward him when is back on the floor.

• Hold a treat in your hand, with a bit sticking out so your dog can see it.
• Show it to your dog, and then place your hand on the floor. Your dog will try every which way to get at the treat.
• Eventually, he will lie down. The moment he does, click and treat.
• Keep at it, and when he understands that your hand on the floor means 'lie down' add the command "Down" when he does the action.
• With practice, he will go down on command, without the treat.

Come!

Teaching your dog to come when called (known as the 'recall') is probably the most important thing your dog will ever learn. Calling your dog back if he is heading towards a busy road can be a life-saver, and teaching him to stop playing with other dogs when asked will save your time and temper. The key is to start young (from six to eight weeks), as young puppies love following their owners around. By six months, your dog will be more independent, and the recall will be far harder to teach.

• Ask a friend or family member to help you with this exercise.
• Get your assistant to kneel on the floor, keeping the puppy close in a 'sit' position.
• Sit right in front in front of your puppy and call him to you, by enthusiastically saying his name followed by the word "Come!". He wil only have to reach forward to get to you
• Look at your puppy, and hold your arms out wide as if to embrace him. You must look and sound very excited to see him. It may help if you hold a treat in your hand or his favourite toy.
• Now start with hm a cuple of paces away and repeat. If you look irresistible, your puppy will race over to you. As soon as he comes, click, treat, and praise him like there's no tomorrow!
• Practice little and often, gradually increasing the distance your puppy has to travel before he reaches you. Always remember to shower him with praise when he comes to you.
• Once your puppy will perform the recall reliably, start calling him when he cannot see you. Play hide-and-seek games in your home, so that your pup has to track you down.
• Move outside into your garden, and introduce controlled distractions, such as a friend walking past. If you don't have a garden of your own, use a friend's. Never start this phase in a public park.
• Only when your puppy is reliable in an enclosed garden, with distractions, is it time to take your training to the park. Put your dog on an extendable lead or a long training line, perhaps in combination with his headcollar. This will give him a sense of freedom, but will ensure that you remain in control.
• Practice a few recalls. Remember that you will have to make yourself super-enticing in a park; there's loads of fascinating distractions for a growing puppy.
• If your puppy shoots off in another direction and ignores your calls, don't chase after him; he'll think this is a great game! Instead, run off in the opposite direction (still holding the end of his training line). Your puppy will be confused, and will end up chasing you. If you run off, it will teach him to keep a close eye on you when he is out, in case he accidentally loses you!
• It's a mistake to shout at a puppy for not coming, or to tell him off when he does finally arrive as this will confuse him. You want him to associate coming to you with being rewarded. Be patient and practice often.

Stay

'Stay' is probably the most difficult exercise to teach. Puppies just hate being still! But with short, frequent practice this exercise can be mastered, and is useful in a number of situations, such as when your dog is about to dive out of the car before you put his lead on.

• Start with the 'Down-Stay'. Ask your dog to go 'Down'.
• Say "Stay" in a steady tone of voice, and put your hand out in front of you with your palm facing forwards.
• Wait a few seconds and then click and reward your dog for staying put. Practice this several times.
• Next, ask him to go 'Down', take a step back, and say "Stay".
• After about three seconds, click, step forwards and reward him. Praise him for being really clever.
• Gradually increase the length and the distance of the 'Stay'. But don't try to do too much too soon.
• If your dog breaks the 'Stay', don't shout at him. Simply not clicking or rewarding is lesson enough. Getting cross is counterproductive.
• Once your dog has mastered the 'Down-Stay', teach your dog to 'Stay' in the 'sit' position, and finally in a 'stand' position, using exactly the same technique.

No!

Most training succeeds by rewarding good behaviour, and ignoring unwanted responses. Your dog wants your approval. But sometimes it's necessary to tell your dog that his behaviour is not on. Rather then yelling or constantly saying 'No', fast progress can also be made through first teaching your dog a 'no' signal, that tells him to stop whatever he is doing whenever he hears it.

Ideally, unless your dog has a nervous disposition and is easily frightened by sudden noises, you need some dog-training discs. These are five metal discs rather like mini cymbals, joined together on a key fob. They can be held silently, and, at the precise moment that you need to indicate "No!", they can be dropped, to make a unique sound that is unlike any other the dog is likely to encounter.

• To teach "No!", first get some treats. In the same way that you would teach the dog to associate the click with a treat, you now need to teach him that the sound of the discs means the loss of access to the treat.
• Place a treat on the floor. As your dog goes to eat it, rattle the discs in your hand. Remove the treat as you rattle the discs but say nothing... let the sound do the work.
• Over a few repetitions, your dog should stop being startled by the sound and will begin to associate the sound with not getting a reward. Eventually, he won't even attempt to take the treat, anticipating the discs, and give up, looking disappointed.
• Now get him to perform another action, such as a 'Sit', for which he will given a treat, thus relieving his previous disappointment and frustration.
• Soon your dog will associate the actions where he has encountered the disc with ones that fail, and will cease trying without you having to use the discs.

Leave it!

• Your discs can also be used to teach a "Leave it" command.
• Put something tasty on a table, within your dog's reach. Tell him to "Leave it", count to three, and then give him a treat (but not the one that he has been told to leave).
• If he goes to take the treat, sound the discs.
• Over several practice sessions, increase the time he has to wait before he is given a treat.

Off!

• If you find your dog on the sofa, tell him "Off", and then encourage him to come to you.
• When he comes 'Off' reward him calmly with praise and a 'click', and use your basic training to ask him to 'sit' or lie 'down' instead. This can then also be rewarded.
• Consistency is all-important. If one member of the family turns a blind eye to the house rules, you've had it!
• If he growls at you for attempting to remove him, back off, and seek the help of a qualified behaviourist via your vet's referral as soon as possible (see www.capbt.org) Neverattempt to tackle any aggression problems yourself, as you may make things worse and put yourself at risk.

Most people get a dog for the company, exercise and enjoyment that these hugely loyal and entertaining animals bring. However, in order to fit into and be accepted by society they are expected to behave in a certain way. We often expect our pets to 'know' this is how they are meant to behave without actually considering whether this is normal for them.
Knowing how to train your dog is not actually something that comes naturally and is a skill you will need to develop. Understanding more about how a dog thinks and what is 'normal' for your dog will help you to do this. It is important to remember that most of the time our pet dogs are keen to please and if they are not doing as you ask perhaps you are not being clear about what you want or are not using rewards, commands and your body language in a way that your dog understands.

When should I begin to train my dog?
Whether you have just brought home a new puppy or a rescue dog, training should and will begin straight away. Remember your dog can pick up bad habits if allowed to get away with certain behaviour when settling in that you later feel will be unacceptable. For example you allow your puppy to sleep in your room for the first few nights as he is crying, a few months down the line you cannot shut your dog in the kitchen at night because he barks the house down! So you should decide on the ground rules before your pet arrives and stick to them.

What will I need to get started?
Mostly you will need a bit of patience and a willing pet. You will also need a small, tasty treat to reward your dog with and a quiet room with no distractions to enable you and your dog to concentrate. It can be very helpful to join a training class for guidance, support and socialisation or work from a reputable dog-training book that works on a positive reinforcement method. Ensure that you have suitable training aids or equipment to hand such as clicker, harness, lead etc. Once your dog is performing a certain task reliably you can start to ask them to do this in a 'real' situation.

What should I train my dog to do?
You can train a dog to perform almost any task with clear concise commands and a suitable reward. Tasks fall into 2 categories:

1. Tasks that provide your dog with behaviour necessary for him to fit into society and keep him safe such as:

• House training.
• Socialisation with other dogs and people and situations your puppy will need to deal with.
• Come/recall command.
• Sit, stay, down.
• Walking to heel.
• Retrieving objects.

2. Tasks that are just good fun. 

• Giving paw.
• Beg.
• Shutting the door.
• Catching a ball/treat.

Chewing is an enjoyable activity for dogs and the urge to chew, particularly when they are puppies, is very strong. Expecting a dog NOT to chew is unreasonable - so if you don't want your own personal belongings or household objects to be nibbled, you must provide suitable chewing materials for your dog.

The need and desire to chew is strongest in teething puppies at approximately three to seven months of age, when their deciduous (milk) teeth are lost and the permanent adult teeth emerge. To relieve the discomfort, and to aid the removal of the loose baby teeth, a puppy will need to gnaw. But this isn't the end of the chewing phase however, because just as the teething phase is ending, so the exploratory adolescent phase begins. This is a time when a young dog will investigate his environment with everything he has, including is teeth! This phase is usually around the age of six months to a year, depending on the individual, but it can last longer - particularly in rescue dogs or others who may have been kennelled or raised in an un-stimulating environment devoid of all the usual objects found in a home, so they may need lots of chews in the great new playground of your home!

Most dogs continue to enjoying chewing toys and chews all their lives and so it's an important part of your dog's general care and husbandry to make sure he has enough to chew! Of course, chewing helps to keep teeth clean and gums healthy, and many chews are designed specifically for this purpose, but it also helps to relieve stress and boredom, and will often keep a dog very happily occupied if you have to leave him to amuse himself for short periods.

Choosing chews
Chews should be safe for your dog and made for the purpose of chewing. While your dog may enjoy gnawing on a slipper or an old shoe, such objects may not withstand the attention of a dog's jaws and teeth for long, and, apart from the safety implications, providing 'your' things is simply teaching your dog that it is acceptable to chew any of your things. It's far better that he is given his own special chews and chew toys so that he leaves your things alone.

As well as the chews you can buy in a petstore - rawhide, safe bones, nylon-type chews, rope tuggers, tough rubber chew-toys, dental care chews etc - there are also chew-toys in which food or treats can be placed and this will help keep your dog amused and occupied, which will help sustain a good general level of relaxed contentment.

Always have a good selection of chews on hand because your dog can become bored with just one or two. Give a chew one day, and, if it's still intact the next morning, put it away for a day and give your dog a new one. Rotate chews, as you would your dog's toys, so that they remain 'special' and retain their novelty value.

Inappropriate chewing
Dogs are not born knowing what they can and cannot chew, so you must teach them. Puppy- or dog-proofing your home is a good first step, removing all breakable/chewable objects that are within your pet's reach and barring his access to areas that can't be made safe with the use of stairgates.

Family retraining may also be called for. Instead of flinging shoes into the hall at the end of a school or work day, for example, all family members should put them in a cupboard or a lidded tub. TV and DVD emote controls may not look tasty to humans, but young dogs seem to find them irresistible, so make sure they are never left in your dog's reach. These are just a couple of examples - within a few days of having a new dog, you'll soon realise what he makes a beeline for!

When you cannot supervise your dog for short periods, a cosy indoor kennel is an invaluable piece of equipment for keeping your dog safe - and your home safe from your dog. Ask for advice from your local trainer or behaviourist about choosing the right size of kennel and introducing and using it correctly so that your dog loves his 'den'

If you catch your dog chewing something that he shouldn't, calmly take it away and replace it with a dog chew and then train him to 'drop' or 'give' so that you intervene calmly in future. Do not chase him around the house or garden trying to grab things back as dogs quickly learn that stealing a 'precious' personal belonging and running off is a great game and an instant way of getting attention!

NEVER punish your dg for chewing something inappropriate - you can only blame yourself for not supervising him closely enough and for leaving objects within his reach. With time and a little effort and patience, your dog will soon learn what is permitted: his own chews and nothing else!

When to seek help
If your dog is chewing himself (e.g. nibbling his paws or tail), if he is destructive when left or separated from you (chewing furniture, doorframes etc), or is repeatedly chewing or eating inedible objects, such as stones, then you should seek veterinary advice without delay. A vet will investigate if any nutritional deficiency or medical condition is causing the behaviour or if you need to be referred to a professional animal behaviourist for help.

The information contained in this article is not a substitute for individual veterinary or behavioural advice and is for information purposes only. You should always consult a veterinary surgeon if you have any concerns about your pet's health. He or she will be able to take a complete medical history and physically examine your pet, to then recommend appropriate individual advice or treatment options. For detailed behavioural advice tailored specifically for your pet, we recommend that you contact a qualified pet behaviourist. For further details of local canine and feline behaviourists practising in your area and how they offer help for with problem pets, please contact The Coape Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers at www.capbt.org, or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.co.uk. Do bear in mind that while dog trainers can take you on as a client directly, pet behaviourists will always require a referral from your veterinary surgeon.

Coprophagia - the eating of faeces - is a fairly common and normal behaviour in dogs, although owners are rarely keen to admit to others that their own dogs do it of course. Most dogs will steal fresh cat poo from the litter tray, if given the opportunity, or nibble on sheep or horse droppings, or even eat their own, or other dogs' faeces. It is rather repulsive to us humans of course, but coprophagia is often perfectly natural to dogs because they have evolved to be scavengers and faeces often have some residual nutritional quality, in the form of undigested or partially digested material. Indeed in many places in the world, dogs feed at village latrines and, of course, bitches usually ingest their puppies' faeces in the first few weeks to keep the den clean and so as not alert predators to their whereabouts.

So, coprophagia is not such an unnatural behaviour to dogs - it's just that our society doesn't find it desirable in pets with whom we share our lives. Plus, of course, there are health implications, with disease and parasite transmission being notable risks.

Course of action
If your dog is coprophagic, the first step is to visit your vet to ensure that your dog is not medically or nutritionally challenged and to discuss an appropriate worming programme in light of his increased risk of exposure from eating faeces.

If your vet gives your dog the physical all-clear, then he/she may refer you to a dog behaviorist/trainer to help with training your dog to ignore faeces and advise you how to manage the problem.

If your dog is eating his own faeces, it's important to clean up after him immediately so he doesn't get the opportunity to indulge his habit. Feed him two or three meals a day, rather than one. Your vet may suggest adding fibre to the diet, too, which will make the faeces less attractive to eat, though there will be more of it of course! Adding small chunks of pineapple or courgette to your dog's food, or an iron tablet, is said to make faeces unappetizing, though this doesn't work with all dogs. It is important to consider whether your dog is adequately employed, mentally and physically? Bored or kennelled dogs often eat or play with faeces due to lack of appropriate stimulation.

If your dog is eating other animals' faeces, then keep him on a lead or muzzled in areas where you are likely to encounter any droppings. If it's cat faeces he likes, then prevet access to the litter tray, perhaps by raising it well out of the dog's reach off the floor to a place where your cat can easily jump or climb to use it.

Aversion therapy may work occasionally - if you can stand the thought, booby-trap faeces with chilli powder, cayenne pepper or some similar strong taste. Then, with your dog on a lead, walk casually up to the faeces. If he tries to eat it, it could put him off ever doing so again, but beware, there are always some dogs who enjoy this addition to their menu! If he ignores the baited faeces, give him lots of praise and a really tasty treat. The trouble is, dogs have a highly tuned nose, which is many times more powerful than our own. It doesn't take most dogs too long to realise that he should sniff first and check the faeces hasn't been tampered with before gulping. And some very voracious coprophagic canines just don't care what's gone on the faeces - it's scoffed so quickly, it doesn't seem to touch the sides!

Another form of therapy involves the use of dog training discs. First the dog is conditioned to their sound and then, when they are chinked at the moment that he's about to eat faeces, the sound should calmly deter him. This requires careful introduction, precision timing and is best done under the guidance of an expert trainer or canine behaviourist.

NEVER punish your dog for eating faeces. Yelling or shouting at him will have a negative effect - he will continue to eat faeces, but will do it secretly or quicker in future and become wary of you. Instead, ask your vet for help without delay.

The information contained in this article is not a substitute for individual veterinary or behavioural advice and is for information purposes only. You should always consult a veterinary surgeon if you have any concerns about your pet's health. He or she will be able to take a complete medical history and physically examine your pet, to then recommend appropriate individual advice or treatment options. For detailed behavioural advice tailored specifically for your pet, we recommend that you contact a qualified pet behaviourist. For further details of local canine and feline behaviourists practising in your area and how they offer help for with problem pets, please contact The Coape Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers at www.capbt.org, or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.co.uk. Do bear in mind that while dog trainers can take you on as a client directly, pet behaviourists will always require a referral from your veterinary surgeon.

Can be exhibited as barking, chewing, toileting and self-mutilation. A new pet or an older established one or an animal that has experienced some kind of upset or illness may exhibit these signs and a vet check may be necessary.
Please follow these general guidelines:

• For younger dogs, gradually accustom them to longer periods alone; precede these periods with quality time.
• Do not make a big issue out of coming in and leaving the house.
• Leave the dog with something desirable that it can only have when alone and that will keep it occupied such as food balls or toys.
• Do not punish mistakes or tell off for barking as this can increase anxiety and is ineffective. Punishment should only ever be used if the animal is caught in the act and even then is not very useful. Any mess should be cleared up when the animal is out of the room.
• Reward good behaviour, for example any time the dog is sitting quietly.
• Most damage is done within 10 minutes of departure. Anxiety is increased by the owner’s routine so change this to allay anxiety.

The information contained in this article is not a substitute for individual veterinary or behavioural advice and is for information purposes only. You should always consult a veterinary surgeon if you have any concerns about your pet's health. He or she will be able to take a complete medical history and physically examine your pet, to then recommend appropriate individual advice or treatment options. For detailed behavioural advice tailored specifically for your pet, we recommend that you contact a qualified pet behaviourist. For further details of local canine and feline behaviourists practising in your area and how they offer help for with problem pets, please contact The Coape Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers at www.capbt.org, or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.co.uk. Do bear in mind that while dog trainers can take you on as a client directly, pet behaviourists will always require a referral from your veterinary surgeon.

Reaction to phobias may vary. Tread gently as it is possible to make matters worse. It is important to go only as quickly as your pet will allow as fear may turn to aggression if your pet is pushed into a situation with no avenue for escape.

Fear of fireworks and other loud noises:

Fears and Phobias: Fireworks and other loud noises
A fear of fireworks is quite common in dogs, and the effects can be devastating in some. Indeed, if not treated promptly, the fear can escalate quickly and a minor problem can become a severe one, with the dog becoming progressively phobic of other sudden loud noises or flashing lights, and any number of things that he has come to associate with fireworks. For example, some dogs may start to become apprehensive and agitated at the approach of dusk, thinking that it may be followed by the whizzes and bangs that they fear. Others may become fearful when in the same locations where they have heard fireworks, and for some this may even develop further into a general fear of the outdoors.

Signs of fear typically include:

• Pacing
• Panting
• Attempting to hide
• Lack of appetite
• Distraction, it will be difficult to get the dog's attention
• Salivation
• Yawning
• Restlessness
• In extreme cases, there can be incontinence

Prevention
Good early habituation to a wide rage of sounds will prepare a puppy for any loud noises he will encounter later in life. If raised in a breeder's busy home, with people coming and going, and all the sounds that accompany ordinary family life (pans being dropped, washing machines, cups smashing accidentally, loud music from the teenager's bedroom, screaming in excited play, and so on), then a puppy is likely to be noise-tolerant as an adult in any subsequent home. Similarly, outdoors he will be fine if as a youngster he experiences the sound of aircraft, thunder, distant gunshot and bird scarers, traffic etc., and finds that his owners don't react to them, or to him when they go off, even if he is initially startled at the first exposures.

If the puppy's exposure to loud noises indoors, or fireworks etc outdoors causes great fear at the first exposure, however, or his initial anxiety is reinforced by attention from his owners, then he could well become fearful of such sounds for life and his condition may worsen steadily. Equally, if he was raised in a quiet, calm environment and had not built up any experience of such noises, learned to ignore them or how to cope with them, then he will probably have great trouble getting used to loud noises in his new home and especially when he hears his first loud firework or clap of thunder.

Using a pre-recorded CD of firework and other loud and strange noises, available from your vet or pet store, can help a puppy get used to a range of such sounds and learn to ignore them in adulthood. The CD needs to be played very quietly in frequent short doses initially, slowly increasing the volume over the course of several days provided he shows no fear. His habituation will be assisted if he is distracted playing or eating during these exposures. However, some puppy's may habituate to all sorts of recorded noises coming from the hi-fi speakers, but still react fearfully to the 'real life' noises, such as fireworks outdoors, and then become fearful at other associated signals, such as the smell of fires, darkness etc., or the atmospheric changes and sound of rain that he may come to learn are associated with impending thunder.

Management
If a dog is already showing fear of fireworks or other loud noises then it would be advisable to seek the help of an experienced, professional behaviourist on referral from your vet as soon as possible. Fear is a very tricky thing to conquer and, if mismanaged or left, it will usually escalate and become more difficult to treat.

A word of warning...your vet may offer a long outdated treatment involving the prescription of a medication called Ace- or Acetyl-promazine (ACP), which often comes in the form of little yellow tablets. DO NOT administer these under any circumstances as they simply prevent the dog from responding to his fear and give the false impression that he is relaxed. When on ACP, a dog can still see and hear the fireworks and is still terrified. Unable to hide and escape, his phobia could well increase. ACP does not alleviate fear and should never be used to treat fear and phobias of this nature. Ask instead for a referral to a behaviourist.

The behaviourist will assess your dog and devise a personalised treatment plan. This may include providing him with a safe indoor den into which he can escape and be left alone when he is fearful. An indoor kennel or crate, with a blanket draped over the top and three sides, could provide such a haven, and help him develop a coping strategy if it is placed in a secluded corner of the house and filled with cosy bedding, a chew toy filled with nice treats, and perhaps sprayed with a calming pheromone available from your vet. Accustom him to using his den to rest, sleep and avoid household chaos in whenever he wants to, well in advance of any fireworks or thundery weather. Then, when fireworks or thunder are anticipated, make sure that he has free access to his den, so he can find it easily when the noises start.

It is most important for you not to show any anxiety or marked behaviour changes yourself when fireworks or other loud noises occur. You could well be nervous wondering how he will react, but try to remain as calm and 'ordinary' as possible or he will start to react to your behaviour before any sign of fireworks or thunder. Certainly don't attempt to comfort him if he looks even slightly apprehensive. Offering reassurance is only natural, but it could well reinforce his emotional response and so encourage his dependence on you rather than him learning to go to the safety of his den to relieve his fear. Ignore him when he is fretful; only give him attention when he is confident, or looking relaxed in his den.

Try to exercise him well in advance of bad weather or well before dusk during times of known firework celebrations, and obviously try to avoid risking his exposure to any fireworks going off while you are out. Keep him on a lead for the firework season, just in case he is spooked accidentally and runs off. Keep him indoors during the whole evening, and only take him out to the garden for his pre-bed toilet break, and on a lead after all the fireworks have ceased - even if it means staying up until 1am or later! Many dogs have scaled fences in fear, bolted and become lost from their own gardens because of their fear of fireworks so do take special precautions. Indoors, close the curtains to minimise exposure to firework or lightning flashes. Put the television or radio on, shut all doors and windows to reduce the noise of the bangs, and try to act as normal as possible, only rewarding him if he is relaxed.

For severe cases, where a dog is very distressed, or during the initial phases of treatment by a behaviourist, a vet may advise some form of medication, but not ACP!

The information contained in this article is not a substitute for individual veterinary or behavioural advice and is for information purposes only. You should always consult a veterinary surgeon if you have any concerns about your pet's health. He or she will be able to take a complete medical history and physically examine your pet, to then recommend appropriate individual advice or treatment options. For detailed behavioural advice tailored specifically for your pet, we recommend that you contact a qualified pet behaviourist. For further details of local canine and feline behaviourists practising in your area and how they offer help for with problem pets, please contact The Coape Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers at www.capbt.org, or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at www.apdt.co.uk. Do bear in mind that while dog trainers can take you on as a client directly, pet behaviourists will always require a referral from your veterinary surgeon.

Although puppies should not be allowed to have any direct contact with an unvaccinated dog or an area where unvaccinated dogs may have been this does not mean that they are not allowed outside at all. In fact a balance should be made between ensuring that the puppy is not at risk of disease and adequate socialisation. You can allow your puppy to have access to safe and secure outside areas where you can be sure that no unvaccinated dogs or any foxes have been. Toilet training an adult dog needs the same techniques and patience as a puppy so read on…

How long will it take to toilet train my puppy?
The length of time it takes for a puppy to become house-trained can vary widely. Some may pick it up almost instantly while others may take as long as six months. Remember, puppies are not able to reliably control themselves until they are about 6 months old so you may experience the occasional accident. The speed of litter training will depend on the puppy but also the amount of time and effort that you put in.

Should I teach my puppy to use newspaper?
Paper training is fine but can lead to some problems by encouraging your puppy to go the toilet in the house, albeit on paper will make it much more difficult as the puppy gets older to teach it that this is now wrong and that they should go outside. Also if urine soaks to the carpet, it can be very difficult to remove the scent sufficiently so that the puppy cannot smell it and be attracted back to that spot. If you do decide to use newspaper then lay a sheet of polythene underneath to prevent urine soaking through.

What is the most effective way to toilet train my puppy?
The simplest way to house train a puppy is to try and make sure that you do not allow your puppy the opportunity to make a mistake. This basically means that you should ensure that you take your puppy to the place you want it to eliminate at times when you can predict that the bowel and bladder will be full. This will be after meals, drinking, sleep and activity or play
Lead, rather than carry, the puppy outside (or to the paper if you have chosen this method), when the puppy begins to sniff around and circle as if it wants to eliminate then begin to praise, gently so that you do not distract the puppy. You can teach your puppy to eliminate on command by matching this with a command such as 'Hurry'. When your puppy has finished you can then give plenty of praise and perhaps a treat as reward. The more often you do this the quicker your puppy will pick this up. You should ensure that your puppy is supervised as much as possible so that you can prevent mishaps.

What should I do at night or when I cannot be there?
When they are very young puppies often need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours. To prevent them from getting into the habit of eliminating in an inappropriate area you can use a puppy pen or indoor kennel. These can be useful when toilet training a puppy if they are used in the right way. A kennel should not be used to put the puppy in if it does not like it, or as a punishment or just to keep it out of the way of the comings and goings in the house. The kennel should be large enough for the puppy (consider the size he will be when he gets older) to stand up in without stooping, lie flat out in and turn around it. It should contain its bed, water bowl and any toys you want to leave.
Initially encourage your puppy to go in there by giving it attention and treats while in there, your puppy will learn that this is a safe place to be where it can go whenever required and can sleep in there. When the puppy is happy to go in there and sleep with the door open you can start to shut the door for short periods until it is comfortable with this. Ensure that the puppy is tired when in the kennel so that your puppy will just want to sleep and is not full of beans!
Indoor kennels or pens can be useful in puppy toilet training as they do not like to go to the toilet in their bed and feeding areas, this is an instinctive behaviour designed to keep the nest clean. However, if your puppy does have an accident you should not punish this.

What should I do if I catch my puppy toileting in the house?
Avoid the temptation to run up to the puppy, grab it off the floor and whisk it outside. This will confuse the puppy rather that teach that this is wrong. Instead interrupt the behaviour and lead your puppy outside to the right place. If your puppy shows no signs of wanting to go again, play a game and see if this stimulates them.
Punishment of any kind is rarely useful in toilet training puppies, no matter how frustrated you get. Remember your puppy is not doing this to purposely annoy you, it may have been caught short or not quite understand what you have been trying to teach. Punishment is especially ineffective if there is any time between your puppy eliminating and when you find it. If you find a puddle it is better to clean it up and simply concentrate on showing your puppy the right thing to do. Review what you have been doing so far; are you taking the puppy outside often enough? Are you being quick enough with your praise?
Rubbing their noses in their mess or showing them it after are unlikely to be effective and will probably frighten your dog. They will probably not associate your anger with the puddle in front of them.

This is usually related to some kind of stress or upset, but may be related to a medical problem so it is a good idea to get a vet check. If the problem is related to separation see the FAQ "How do I deal with separation related anxieties?". Usually it's advisable to use housetraining advice to retrain your dog when other issues are resolved.

This can be very traumatic and upsetting for dogs. You are often distracted and stressed and this can rub off. The period before moving is also stressful, i.e. packing of boxes. It is often advisable to put pets into boarding kennels or even send them to stay with someone that they know. Try to keep them away until the move is completed and the house is pretty much in order. When your pets are brought into the new house there must be time devoted to settling in, familiar bedding etc is good but do not let basic rules go, as this will confuse matters in the long run. Allow your pet quiet time to explore its new surroundings, keep your pets out of the way of any building work or decorating that may also be going on. Make sure your pet knows where food and water bowls are and where they can go to the toilet.