Grooming isn't just about making your dog look good. Regular care removes dead hair, keeps the coat and skin healthy, and gives you the opportunity to check your pet's general health. It's also important time spent together, building your relationship, trust and understanding. Starting early means dogs get used to being handled and this also makes any veterinary examinations much less stressful in the future. There's even scientific evidence that grooming sessions reduce stress, and blood pressure, for both of you!

When to groom

Regardless of whether your dog's coat is full or clipped short, coarse or fine, it needs some care. Most vets advise grooming on a daily basis (depending on hair length and type) to prevent tangles. It will also reduce the amount of hair shed in your home. Some dog breeds do not shed hair (Yorkshire Terriers, Poodles) and these breeds need regular grooming plus trimming to keep their coat from becoming long and thick.

If your dog’s coat has become very tangled/matted, or you have rehomed a dog with such a coat this may be more than you can manage to sort out. Consult your vet or a professional dog groomer as some hair may need to be shaved off to allow you to start afresh with coat care. Occasionally in severe cases a sedative/anaesthetic may be required (only given by a vet of course).

What you need

Start out with a double sided brush - one side with soft bristles, the other with cushioned stainless steel pins (pinhead brush). If your dog has long hair, you may also need a comb with wider teeth and a 90-degree angle between teeth and handle. Combs are useful tools for the removal of thickened mats, but remember this can tug the skin and be painful so try and prevent them forming in the first place, and if a lot of matted hair is present then a professional grooming may be required. Lastly, you'll need a 'rubber-grooming mitt' or rubber brush. Rubber mitts/brushes feel like vigorous petting to dogs, so they tend to enjoy them.

How to groom

If your puppy or adult dog is not used to being brushed it is important this is a positive experience with lots of praise, treats and avoid causing pain by tugging the hair. You may need to start with a soft brush for very short periods regularly so the dog gets used to the feeling. Start off by using your fingers to carefully loosen matted hair from sensitive skin. Never use scissors to cut out matts as they can be very close to the skin and you can unintentionally catch the skin causing a wound. Combs are a safe and comfortable choice around the head and neck, the area surrounding the anus and base of the tail, the legs and the lower abdomen. When using a comb or brush, brush with the grain. Use rubber grooming mitts or brushes, with their dull-tipped rubber 'teeth', to pull loosened hairs from the coat. These are particularly effective for short haired breeds and you may find a lot of lose hair is removed. In fact initially you may want to do this outside so the hair can blow away!

Styling

Some breeds require special grooming techniques.

• Some terriers need stripping, where dead hair is plucked from the coat. This is usually done by a groomer as it requires skill and special equipment.
• Some breeds, including those with long hair or those that don’t shed hair such as the Poodle, need scissoring into shape.
• Breeds with very thick, long coats may need a short clip in hot weather and to prevent matting, e.g. Old English Sheepdogs, Bearded Collies.
• Some long-coated breeds, if used for showing, such as the Yorkshire Terrier, need the coat put into wrappers (papers) to protect it. If not used for showing them this hair is better trimmed shorter.

Your breeder, veterinary practice or a professional groomer can always advise you of your breed's specific grooming needs.

Clipping the coat

Clipping the coat can be important when matts are large and cannot be removed by hand without discomfort. Breeds with long hair, or those that do not shed their coat may need routine clipping, particularly around the face and bottom, to allow them to see clearly and for hygiene reasons. In the heat of summer, you'll have a very grateful dog. If you are uncertain, ask a professional groomer, as this can be a lot more tricky than it looks, resulting in at worse wounding the dog with the scissors, and at best a very uneven haircut!. Also be aware that there are some situations where clipping is not appropriate - for example, dogs with long hair between their toes. Have a chat with your vet/vet nurse or dog groomer about the best way of managing your dog’s coat.

Professional grooming

Extensive matting or snarls can present a grooming dilemma. Left alone, they can accelerate the matting of surrounding hairs and are very uncomfortable for the dog. If your dog has a long or challenging coat, enjoys a daily dip in the pond, or if you would rather spend your time walking and not combing, consider regular visits to a professional groomer. A good groomer can provide a soothing bath, gentle hair drying and a thorough brushing. If you ask for advice, you'll be surprised at how much you'll also learn. Ask your breeder, vet or colleagues at a training class to recommend a groomer. A regular professional grooming is often a must for the breeds requiring regular trimming due to a long coat or those that do not shed e.g. Bearded Collie, Old English Sheepdogs, Yorkshire Terriers, Poodles and Bichon Frises. If you have a puppy of these breeds, or plan to use a groomer regularly, introduce this experience early, with lots of praise and reward so the dog doesn’t fear the experience.

Bathing

Many dogs rarely need more than two or three baths a year - some show breeders even discourage baths altogether for some rough and wire coat breeds, certainly bathing too often can dry out a dog’s coat. However, many dogs have the habit of rolling in something unpleasant or walking through puddles, or may need more regular baths for medical reasons and it is worth getting him/her familiar with the process. Often a quick foot wash will be enough but occasionally a full bath is required.

• For small breeds, the sink will make a good bath. Larger breeds may need the shower or a bath (an old baby bath works well) and use a non-slip mat so they don’t panic if they lose their footing.
• Make sure the environment is warm enough as small/thin breeds will get very cold after their bath.
• Do not overfill the bath as this could make the dog panic, a few inches is usually enough, or none at all if you have a shower attachment.
• Use a shower attachment, or jug to wet the coat, making sure the water is warm, but not hot.
• Wet the coat thoroughly, careful to avoid getting water in your dog's eyes. Part the hair down to the skin to make sure that it's wet all the way through.
• If your dog shows signs of nervousness, especially the first time, offer praise and reassurance throughout. Try distracting with a treat. You can also take the tub outside to a less confined space, which can be less threatening. Ask a family member/friend to help by stroking and re-assuring the dog whilst you do the washing!
• Use a special dog shampoo that's designed for your dog's coat type and always read the label instructions - some shampoos require dilution and some medicated shampoos require a certain contact time.
• Once the coat is lathered, rinse thoroughly. If any soap is left in the coat, your dog may be itchy afterwards.
• If you're using a pet conditioner, ensure that it's rinsed out too.
• Keep a stock of old towels in the airing cupboard to allocate as ‘dog towels’ for drying the dog.
• Stand back as most dogs love a vigorous shake after a bath! Or try and towel-dry before your dog has a chance to shake.
• Make sure the dog is kept in a warm room until fully dry. Some thick coats can take a surprisingly long time to be completely dry.
• If the coat is very long, it may need blow-drying while brushing it. Your breeder or groomer can advise you if this is needed. Make sure the dryer is not too close to the skin, directed near the eyes, or on a hot setting, as the skin can burn easily. Hair dryers can be quite frightening for a dog if not used to them, so ensure you reassure him throughout the process and reward good behaviour. If your dog is likely to need hair drying but isn’t used to it; start introducing this as soon as possible, initially just the noise in the room, and moving onto directing the dryer onto the dog, following with praise and reward so the experience is not stressful.
• Make sure the coat is completely dry before he/she goes outside.