How to Teach a Dog to “Heel

Why is it important that a dog doesn’t pull on the lead.

Walking without pulling is something all dogs should learn so they can get the exercise they need in whatever environment we keep them in, and so we can keep them (and us) safe and injury-free.

A dog who pulls:

Risks permanent injury to themselves – including neck, larynx, trachea, and vertebrae – along with possible nerve and eye issues. It can also lead to potential breathing problems, thyroid issues, pain and lameness. This can be especially true if walked using a collar which puts all the pressure on a very narrow delicate area – which is why a well-fitting harness is now usually recommended.

Risks injuring their owner - including falls, strains, sprains, long term back issues, and even broken bones. Owners can be pulled into roads or into other dangerous situations.

A dog who pulls on the lead (especially if a large breed) is a danger to those around them – and in the eyes of the law, can be seen as dangerously out of control. For more on responsible public behaviour, read our guide on dog walking etiquette.

And lastly a dog who pulls, especially if a large or strong breed, is a nightmare to walk and so owners tend to walk them less often or for a shorter time. This can lead to frustration, boredom and serious behaviour problems in the dog. Dog walks are one of the great bonding exercises that we have with our dogs, and so if a dog pulls, this can negatively affect the dog/owner bond.

Defining 'Heel':

Many people think that a dog walking on a loose lead beside their owner is ‘walking to heel’ but there are several different ways of walking the dog safely and appropriately.

Loose lead walking

It is important that all dogs, no matter their size, learn how to walk on a loose lead without pulling. This is a life skill that every dog should be taught so they can get the exercise they need for physical and mental enrichment, without causing injury to themselves, their owner and potentially others. A dog who will walk on a loose lead is a joy to exercise, whereas a dog who drags you everywhere yanking on the lead makes daily walks a misery and potentially dangerous for you both.

Loose lead walking should be taught from the very start of your life together – so that when you venture into the great outdoors, your puppy knows to keep the lead loose and not to pull.

Walking close

There are going to be times when you are in hazard-rich environments when it is going to be safer that your dog stays closer beside you. This could be in places where there is traffic, lots of people, other dogs, shop fronts, food outlets etc – and it is important to keep your dog safe, prevent them causing a nuisance, and reassure others that your dog is under control. For most people, this is their definition of ‘heel work’ and this is what we will look at in more detail in this article.

Heelwork

Heelwork is an impressive obedience exercise that can be seen in formal competitions and trials. It is physically demanding for a dog and so is done for short periods at a time and should be reserved for dogs who have a high degree of training and fitness.

It’s also demanding for the owner, as they have to concentrate on their dog to keep their focus, and for a medium sized dog or above, they will need to move faster than their natural walking speed.

Dogs have six gait patterns but the most commonly used are walk, trot and gallop. When walking beside us, the majority of dogs in decent fitness are most comfortable trotting – and that is what you see in heelwork. Dogs naturally trot at a faster pace than we walk (a fit Labrador trots at about 8 miles an hour, whereas humans walk at an average 3 miles an hour), so dogs have to adapt their gait to our slower speed, which is physically demanding for them, and in turn, we have to speed up. This is a long way from a relaxing walk!

For most dogs, most of the time, loose lead walking should be your default as it is relaxing, safe and enjoyable for you both.

Why Lead Walking Isn't Natural for Dogs

No matter what kind of lead walking you choose, it is important to remember that while we often think that ‘all’ we want is a dog who walks nicely and doesn’t pull, it isn’t a natural behaviour for a dog. Dogs naturally wander around, stopping and starting frequently, sniffing, exploring, investigating their surroundings and taking in everything around them. If something like a squirrel appears from the undergrowth, they will instinctively accelerate quickly and give chase for a brief period until they either catch it – or far more likely, it vanishes up a tree. Dogs don’t naturally ‘go for a walk’ – let alone do it attached to a human!

When we train a dog to walk on the lead, we have to always remember that we are training them to do something that isn’t natural, and we have to make allowances for that and not just assume it is easy.

This understanding of a dog’s natural behaviour is especially important for puppies and adolescents whose whole development in these periods is about exploring and investigating their environment so they can learn about the world around them, and who are also easily distracted by just about everything!

Training a dog to walk close to you

While walking on a loose lead will be ideal for relaxed walks, there are times when you are going to want your dog to walk closer to you.

Example of this might be:

• When walking in busy towns
• When walking near traffic or on narrow pavements
• When there are a lot of people/dogs/potential hazards
• Around children or vulnerable adults – or people worried about dogs

What equipment do I need to teach my dog to walk close to me?

All your dog’s usual walking equipment:

• A harness
• A 2m training lead with a clip on both ends.
• Small tasty dog treats
• Your marker word (or clicker if used).
• A cue word that is going to mean walk close (different from any loose lead cue word you already use).

Getting Started

As always with all your training, start in a quiet environment with no distractions – and on a non-slip floor.

Make sure your dog is happy being on a lead, wearing their harness and can already do consistent loose lead walking.

Decide what side you want your dog to walk on. Traditionally in obedience training it is on your left, so you have your right hand free but it is up to you which you find easiest and the most useful. If you regularly walk on country roads without pavements, you should be walking towards oncoming traffic (Highway Code) with yourself between passing vehicles and your dog. In the UK that would mean you walk on the right hand side of the road with your dog on your right.

You can of course teach your dog to walk on both sides using different cues for each, and if you walk in rural locations this will be important to keep your dog safe from traffic but make sure you master one before you train the other.

Step by Step Guide

1. Luring: Stand next to your dog with them on the side you want them to walk on – with a treat in your hand.
2. Hold the treat at the end of your dog’s nose to get them interested and take one step forward. When your dog follows staying close beside you, use your marker and give the treat.
3. Repeat a few times before building it up to two steps and then three or four.
4. Gradually increase the number of steps you are talking before rewarding.
5. If your dog is tall enough, you can try resting the hand with the treat in it against your thigh as you are walking. This will make a useful hand signal as you progress. If your dog is smaller, you can use a target stick if you have trained this and your dog is good at it.
6. Once your dog has got the hang of this, you can add the cue (“close” or similar) when your dog is walking in the right position so that you link the behaviour with the word.
7. If your dog gets ahead of you or moves out away from you, use the treat to lure them back to the right place. Give them the treat when they are back in the right position again and continue as above.
8. Practise this until you can do it the length of the room or the garden before giving the treat.
9. Practise in lots of different environments – first without distractions and then in slightly busier places.

How to fade the lure

The next step is to teach your dog to walk close beside you without you having to lure them with a treat.

1. Have treats in a treat bag or pocket.
2. Lure your dog into the ‘close’ position and give them a treat so they know what you’re going to be doing and know there are rewards on offer.
3. Using the same hand position (but without a treat) and the same cue word, walk forward a few steps before using your reward marker and giving a treat from the treat bag as a reward.
4. As before, build up the number of steps you can do before rewarding.
5. Practise in different places and environments – first with no distractions and then in busier areas.
6. Introduce different speeds and lots of changes of direction to make it more interesting. Walking close to you at your speed is potentially really boring for a dog – so make it fun! Use your voice to encourage them to focus on you.

Always remember that walking close beside us for any length of time is difficult for a dog, so keep sessions short and sweet – and when you have to do this for real, give plenty of breaks.

Advanced Heelwork Training

If you are keen to take your training even further – or have dreams of competing in obedience - find a good class that specialises in competitive obedience, and they can help you take your dog’s training, including heelwork, to the next level and beyond. Breeds like Border Collies, German and Belgian Shepherds, Standard Poodles and many others can excel in this discipline, as they couple intelligence and trainability with a strong working drive.

How to stop a dog from walking in front of you?

• Stop as soon as they get ahead of you or the lead goes tight, call them or lure them back, reward them and continue. Be consistent in this. You are teaching them that they aren’t going to get anywhere if they are pulling on the lead.
• Make sure you are walking fast enough – especially for gundogs, working or herding dogs, or dogs who are constantly active.
• Keep your dog’s focus and interest by varying speed and direction, rewarding frequently – and if their attention begins to wander, practise a few ‘Watch Me’s to get them focusing on you again.
• Puppies and adolescents are very easily distracted and not physically developed so this is difficult for them. As such, sessions should always be very short and the rewards very good
• Make sure your dog has had enough exercise and a chance to use up some energy before expecting them to walk calmly along beside you.
• Start by doing very short sessions rewarding frequently and slowly building it up.
• Consider what your dog was originally bred to do – as this will give you clues to why they might be finding walking close beside you difficult and may need more support in this area. Are they bred to follow their nose or chase things that move, are they bred to arc out in front of you or quarter the area (like collies or spaniels), or are they like Huskies, bred to pull? These dogs might benefit from being exercised in different ways and i n different environments that suit their breed type – after all, you wouldn’t drive an F1 car across a field!
• Never yank, jerk or pull back on the lead – or resort to collars that tighten or pinch.

Having a dog who doesn’t pull on the lead is an important life skill – and it’s one that has to be taught slowly, consistently and with an understanding of your dog’s natural behaviours. It does take time – and patience – but it is one of the most important things you will ever teach your dog and it will make your daily walks together a joy.

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